Setting up the Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0

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A few weeks ago, I lost one of my printers when its control board went wonky (actually, this started having problems earlier in the year after a power surge, but that is a story for a different day). The printer in question was a Creality Ender 3 V2. I have many of these machines and have been pretty satisfied with them when considering their cost. I may still fix the Ender at some point, but I know the control board and power supply have issues, so it may not be worth it.

To replace this printer I wanted to try an already enclosed printer. Anycubic happened to have a huge Christmas sale, so I picked up an Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0 for about $200 less than its regular price. Not only is it enclosed, but it has dual gear extrusion and dual z-axis motors. If this printer works well, I may dedicate it as my TPU printer.

This post will focus on the very short process taken to set the printer up.

Unboxing

I didn’t take pictures of the unboxing process. But I will say Anycubic did a great job of packaging the printer. The box came beat up as heck (it happens), but the box contents were in perfect condition.

The only thing I will say about unboxing is that reading the instructions before removing all the packaging materials within the printer is critical. I removed the packaging from under the bed before I should have. It was a pain to get out, and I could have compromised the wiring going to the hotbed. If I had read the manual first, I would have known to power the printer on and lift the bed to remove that packaging.

Setting up the printer

There isn’t much to set up with the printer. This is an enclosed printer. Most of the work setting it up was done unpacking all the foam and cutting the cable ties.

Also, as with most printers, the power supply has to be set for either US power or overseas power. The power supply came set to 230V. I used a screwdriver to put it to 115V. The power supply is inside the case, on the right-bottom side as you look inside. The picture below has an arrow pointing at the switch to change the power supply input voltage.

Make sure to set PSU to proper voltage input.

The only change I made to the setup was to use a power supply cable that goes into the machine at a 90-degree angle (available at Amazon). This will allow me to have the machine right next to a bookshelf. Plus, I hate power cords sticking out.

A power cord with a 90-degree angle can often be safer and/or more convenient.

The only real installation was to connect the filament runout sensor and filament spool holder to the back of the printer. Both are quick and easy to install. Having a runout sensor was another selling point for me when choosing this printer.

Runout sensor and filament spool holder attached.

Up and running in fifteen minutes

I think the whole process took me about fifteen or twenty minutes. Most of that time was spent getting the foam out of the printer. Even leveling the bed was relatively quick.

I printed the owl on the SD card to test the printer. I also printed the Thingiverse Data Breach Trophy designed by MDW3D. Both files printed great. Since I am printing PLA, I left the top cover off and the front door open, as seen below.

First prints on the Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0

Initial thoughts

So far, I’m pretty impressed with the Anycubic 4Max Pro 2.0. I had it up and going very quickly. Plus, the prints I’ve done so far look great. This is my second Anycubic FDM printer, and honestly, I might keep looking at Anycubic in the future.

Song of the Day: It Was a Good Day

Ok, this is from Ice Cube, and not AnyCUBEic. But it was a good day…

Bonus Song: Go Ninja

Speaking of Ice. Here is Vanilla Ice with his song from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II.

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